1510 SW Harbor Way
Portland, OR 97201
www.threedegreesrestaurant.com
There comes a day every once in a while when you just have to say, “screw it” and get yourself spoiled in different ways. Considering that I am being held against my will (”No showee, no payee!” in a sense) at work here in Portland over the weekend. In other words, instead of heading home on Thursday, I have to man the servers and ensure that everything goes well during several test runs.
With that in mind, I decided to spoil myself food-wise last night. I ask my hotel’s concierge for his recommendation of places to eat. My qualification was simply a typical fare that is upgraded to an art form.
Normally, most people have their own picky palette, so it is difficult to find new places to try after you settle down to several choice restaurants. I was determined to break through that doldrums, so I urged the concierge to find a well respected place with a decent variety of foods to pick from, thus the suggestion of Three Degrees.
Tucked within Riverplace Hotel, whose appearance screams “Honeymoon Suites”, the setting of this restaurant is ideal for romantic couples looking for a place to dine while watching the river, with yachts, manned by overzealous captains eager to press their horn at any slight hint of infractions by others, passing by. I was probably the only table with an odd number of people, but it suits me as I have Book 7 of Harry Potter to devour while enjoying my meal.
Upon arrival, I noticed that among the menu options was the equivalent of omakase (お任せ - “entrust”/”protect”) offered. Omakase is short for “omakase onegaishimasu” (お任せお願いします- the second word meaning “please do me the favor”), asking the chef to prepare a meal for you. Typically uttered in sushi bars, it can be a huge gamble — being given something that you would never have the guts to order, but finding them to be highly delicious. It usually comes with a price tag much higher than a typical meal, but with the best quality fare available for you, it is a meal not easily forgotten. I strongly implore everyone reading this to make this choice whenever they are able to do so.
I was also in a mood for a martini, but I decided to demur and get the wine pairing option along with the menu, fully yielding to the chef the meal for the evening. Even with this option made, the waitress soon returned to inquire of any particular style I may prefers and rather would avoid. Tempted I may be, I chose to yield with willing to eat whatever that is offered.
I chose the five course meal, along with wines which tips the scale to a three figure sum after tips, but oh what a meal it was.
Starting out with a brut, the first course was raw scallops, topped with tiny chopped granny apple, some citrus fruit, marinated with some sweet butter sauce, accompanied with a mild soy sauce. It was the second best course of the bunch, absolutely delicious high grade scallop far better than what I have tried in many sushi shops.
Accompanied by an Australian viognier, the second course was a beautiful colorful stack of tomatoes, marinated with some kind of olive oil and balsamic vinegar, and topped with blue cheese. This was the mildest blue cheese I have ever taste, much to my pleasure, and this dish worked really well.
A pinot noir supported my most favorite dish of the night — wrapped halibut with cooked prosciutto, laid upon slightly cooked dark mixed greens, with a light oil dressing. It was magnificent. Just simply magnificent, and the wine did all it could to prop the dish up on the pedestal, and succeeding in the process. If only it was offered on the menu, I would have brought my team over just to try this dish.
For the main course, I was given a very bold cabernet sauvignon. Upon sniffing it, I knew I would be having steak. I was not disappointed with sliced tenderloin laid on a bed of sour cream mashed potatoes. Delicious. Delicious.
For the final course, along with a port that warms you up all over with a tiny sip, a dessert of roasted banana, crunchy cinnamon wafer, surrounded by a sea of warm chocolate — it was a nice finish.
This meal was delicious, and very satisfying. However, I can not help but sense that despite the skills of the chef, it felt as if he has been beaten down to submission. Running a restaurant could exact a severe toll on the chef, with fussy palettes interfering with his imagination. The chef clearly is skilled, but too restrained.
The contrast with Jax Restaurant which I reviewed is that the chef for Jax is extremely creative with the limited budget and food options he had to adhere to. This restaurant screams good ingredients, yet a disheartened chef going through the motions.
I do plans on coming back, but with only one objective — to somehow find the best this chef could offer. I am at a loss at how one can do this, and would welcome anyone’s advice.
It is a fantastic place, with great view, great food. Yet, it can be so much better.