Whole Hog Cafe
1400 SE Walton Blvd
Bentonville, Arkansas
It has been a while since I reviewed a restaurant. Partly due to the fact that I get tired of writing about places, and especially since I have been to a whole sea of “perfectly adequate” sites that does what they are meant to do, and nothing more: Serve edible food.
The past few weeks I have been working here in Bentonville, Arkansas, I had the pleasure of being introduced to the Mecca of BBQ.
I can hear you now: ‘Wait a minute; this is Arkansas, not Texas/Memphis/North Carolina/Cincinnati!’
Just as unbelievable as it is that we could have the world best pizza in Phoenix, Arizona, not downtown Bronx, we can have the world best BBQ in the middle of nowhere, not in the middle of the best places. It all boils down to one thing: Competition breeds similarity.
It take a complete shift to a different audience who are more willing to try something unique, rather than with a bunch of people who are stuck ordering the same sauce since they were born, for creativity to blossom.
It took a group of Buffalo ex-pats in Pittsburgh to come up with the most brilliant and hottest chicken wings sauce anywhere (Joe Vs the Volcano.) Unfortunately, that recipe has gone by the wayside ever since Fat Heads South Shore Saloon was renovated and shifted their menu toward draft beer and Pittsburgh dishes. I suppose there weren’t enough people brave enough to keep them afloat by burning their tongues frequently enough.
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I do not know the history behind this place, Whole Hog Cafe — other than the award winning food they have entered in so many competitions that their place is jam-packed with trophies. That’s right; these are not your typical bowling trophies at your pizza parlor. Those trophies you see all around the restaurants are awarded for the food they make, not for how well they play sports on their free time.
Granted, Whole Hog is a wee bit too much for a lunch, but their general options are excellent. To make a note, while the ribs are far better than your typical ribs at whatever fancy ribs place you may attend, the food of choice for lunch is Pulled Pork.
For a place that serves hundreds of people a day, somehow this pork dish is not the blandest thing around. They did it right, by god they did it right. The only way to beat the taste is to slow cook your own pork and eat within minutes of finishing. The pork is moist, but not soaked. The taste is tangy but not fake. They do indeed smoke the food on site, as we noted downwind.
Not only that, their coleslaw is very solid. Again, not soggy, but very crunchy and freshly made (the proper way at that.) Their other sides are solid, including the potato salad, and fried beans — a must for any BBQ lover’s dish.
Unlike most places that would slather their BBQ sauce all over the pork, they do it right — you can eat the pork straight (and it’s very tasty at that already). However, they also recognize that people are diverse, so they offer seven different sauces. Some are sweet, while other can be quite spicy. My favorite is the tomato and vinegar, slightly tangy — while others go crazy for the southern vinegar and spice, quite bold. One spice is held back, “Volcano” — something I have not been brave enough to try.
In the end, whenever it was discovered that we are planning to head to Whole Hog Cafe for lunch, our group of people usually double if not triple in size of eager eaters. Finding seats are difficult for large groups, especially if the banquet room is reserved. But the wait and the search are worth it, as the food gives us a true taste of America.
If you ever find yourself in Arkansas or nearby states, do take it upon yourself, BBQ lovers, to pay this place a visit.
P.S. Yes, this place is far better than Gates in Kansas City, for those who may be asking. For those who know, it is high praise, indeed.